Onomichi Ramen

There are quite a few restaurants around the Hamamatsucho JR station, but many of them are designed for quick churn (i.e. standing restaurants/izakayas). We were quite tired after a day of sightseeing so ended up picking Onomichi Ramen, as it had seats. Sure, the decor is nothing special, and it has a lingering smell of cigarette smoke, but once you’ve received your giant bowl of ramen those things fade into the background. I ordered the standard soy ramen and added on all the extras – pork and egg. They offer table service, and brought out edamame for us to start. The ramen didn’t take long (so a good spot if you’re really hungry!) and the broth looked rich and fatty. Research after the meal explained that Onomichi ramen is the local specialty of Onomichi, near Hiroshima, and uses a typical soy broth with added fish paste and melted lard. Whilst that may not sound appetising, I promise you, it was delicious, and if I’d had room to finish the bowl I would have. The pork was thick and tender, the egg gooey in the centre and the ramen had a great amount of bite. Yum, yum, yum.

Onomichi Ramen,  Chome-30-11, Hamamatsucho, Minato, Tokyo Japan

Kurikoan

Taiyaki is one of those quintessentially Japanese sweets that I haven’t managed to find in Australia. I don’t think we even have an equivalent, but that just means it’s more important to get it when I do go to Japan! One of my favourite places for taiyaki is Kagurazaka – Kurikoan makes them traditionally (compared to Fujiya’s take), using the fish mould and offering a range of fillings. I couldn’t help but order the red bean paste flavour, which is the original/recommended flavour. We each picked different ones (red bean paste, custard and a third one I can’t remember, maybe red bean with a nut of some sort?) and the staff were kind enough to let us dine in. I’d visited twelve months earlier and had their taiyaki set, which came with an iced tea – I’d highly recommend that option, especially in the warmer months! The taiyaki itself had a lovely slightly-crunchy, still slightly-soft shell, and the inner cavity was packed with red bean paste filling. I enjoy red bean paste as a not-too sweet option, and like taiyaki for being a light but filling snack. Give it a try when exploring Kagurazaka.

Kurikoan, Porta Kagurazaka 1F, 2-6-1 Kagurazaka, Tokyo      http://kurikoan.com/cafe.html

Kuzuryu Soba

I have written a lot of posts about places in Kagurazaka, but this is a new one we discovered on this trip and I fell completely in love with it! We were wandering the backstreets and saw a small tour group beng led up the stairs into what looked like a traditional restaurant. After checking that a reservation wasn’t required, we took a seat inside and discovered that it was a soba restaurant, yay! The waiter was very patient with my Japanese and suggested we order a lunch set, so Mum had a mushroom soba and Dad and I both ordered the tempura set with tempura and kake soba (hot soba in a broth). The tempura was mostly vegetables and had a delicate, flaky batter which was nice and light. I particularly enjoyed the sweet potato piece, before getting stuck into my soba. The noodles were obviously made by hand – you could actually watch the chef slicing them – and were cooked to perfection. The broth had just the right amount of umami and wasn’t overly salty. The bowl was huge but I managed to finish all my noodles – I’ll definitely be back for another serving next time I’m in Tokyo.

Kuzuryu Soba, 3-3 Kagurazaka, Tokyo http://kuzuryu-soba.com/

Paul

I’m not generally one to shy away from a good sweet, and seeing Paul on Kagurazaka-dori, it’s pretty hard to just walk past. Their window display is just a sample of the baked goods heaven inside, and I was drawn in by the promise of a good canelle. I had my first canelle in Paris at a street stall on the Champ-Elysees and have been smitten ever since, so was keen to see how this French patisserie in Tokyo compared to the real deal. The outside was lovely and crisp, with a slight burnt flavour, but not overpoweringly so. The inside has the good stuff – a custardy cake that is spongy and soft but thick, with a distinctive milky flavour. It was small, but it passed the test. Next up was the apple danish – this was a real winner, with crisp, flaky pastry and glazed, soft apple pieces inside. The lady initially got the order wrong, but happily swapped for the apple turnover she’d given me for the danish. Both of the sweets had great flavour and texture, and I was disappointed not to have stomach space for more.

Paul, Kagurazaka Terrace 1F, 5-1-4 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku Tokyo Japan  http://paul-inter-release.fo-02.naxeo.net/

Lotte Hotel

Flashback post from where I would rather be… I do love a good high tea, and after the amazing one at Raffles in Singapore, I was keen to see what Seoul had to offer. Quite a few places have an afternoon tea, but the Lotte Hotel one sounded just right for us, so off we went on a weekday afternoon. We were pretty gobsmacked on arrival to see that our table was seated right by a window overlooking… a waterfall. Yep, it was a seriously beautiful view both outside and in, with high ceilings and chandeliers creating a classy setting in The Lounge itself too, which was only enhanced by the string quartet that played throughout the afternoon. I chose earl grey as my Ronnefeldt tea, but we were both surprised to see that the tiered tray only came with one of everything, so we had to slice things in half. The savoury sandwiches were rolls, including a quid ink one with salmon, a seed one with crab and a brioche with beef, and they were probably the best savouries I’ve had at a high tea anywhere. Other highlights included the opera cake, orange and poppyseed cake, and strawberry custard tart. Completely luxurious and decadent.

The Lounge, Lotte Hotel, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul          http://www.lottehotel.com/seoul/en/dining/dining.asp?type=BL&seq=8

Menbou

Not long after arriving in Kyoto, we set out to do some exploring. And subsequently spent quite some time in the subway system going back and forward because I picked the wrong station… So, while I regrouped, we grabbed lunch at a subterranean outlet called Menbou. It was a good choice. We picked the tonkatsu lunch set, which came with pork katsu, udon, rice, pickles and salad. The tray was huge, and absolutely everything on it was delicious. The tonkatsu was perfectly crumbed, with really tender pork and a katsu sauce you just wanted to lick the bowl for (or maybe that’s just me?). The udon were particularly good, springy and in a light broth enhanced by the flavour of the seaweed and spring onion. I do believe that rice tastes better in Japan, and this bowl was the proof in the pudding – I ate every last grain despite being full. No sauce, just tasty white rice. The pickles were nice and tart and the salad went nicely with the tonkatsu. This place was seriously good! Unfortunately I was only able to find the address of their main store, which is much fancier and may have a different menu.

Menbou, East of Kiyamachi-dori-Oike-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto             http://menbo-foods.com

Ekibenya

There’s really nothing like grabbing an obento and going on an adventure. We picked ours up at Shinjuku station and took them out to the lovely Inokashira-koen in Kichijoji to soak up the sunshine in the park. I remembered that Ekbenya, near the JR line exits close to the South-East exit, had some delicious options, so that’s where we went. I picked a square bento with a big range of ingredients (to try as much as possible), and was really happy with this choice. I love being able to mix between the fish (which flaked perfectly and went really well with the steamed greens), three serves of rice with different flavourings, veggies (pumpkin, lotus root, carrot), and pickles. All bento are served cold, so the different textures are really important for variety. This one ticked all the boxes, although I was sorely tempted by the kid’s one shaped like a bullet train! Surprisingly, the highlight of the bento was the dessert – a little yuzu jelly, which was so juicy and deliciously citrusy that I would have gladly eaten another handful. Whilst there are so many great restaurants in Tokyo, don’t forget to try the local, humble bento!

Ekibenya, Shinjuku JR station, near South-East exit, Shinjuku Tokyo      http://www.nre.co.jp/shop/brand/ekibenya/